Crantock is a popular village on Cornwall’s north coast just two miles from the tourist mecca of Newquay and nineteen miles from Padstow. With its gorgeous sandy beach, perfect for sandcastle building and swimming, and its picturesque setting Crantock is a favourite with families. But this tiny place has a fascinating and diverse past that more than compliments its scenic beauty.
Crantock was founded more than a thousand years ago by Irish missionaries who built an oratory here and began to preach Christianity to the local people. One of those monks, St Carantoc, gave the village its present name. At one time however it was known as Langurroc which means ‘The Dwelling of the Monks’ in Cornish and that original settlement is thought to be buried beneath the dunes that back Crantock beach today.
The Gannel
The beach is wide and sandy with The Gannel, a deep tidal river at one end, and high cliffs at the other, a popular spot for nesting sea birds. Surprisingly one of the caves in these cliffs, Piper’s Hole, also hides a delightful secret. In the early 1900s a local artist, a man called Joseph Prater, carved the image of a woman’s head and a poem into the rock face. The inscription reads: “Mar not my face but let me be, Secure in this lone cave by the sea, Let the wild waves around me roar, Kissing my lips for evermore”
The story behind this work of art has been intriguing visitors ever since. Rumours and tall tales abound about the identity of the woman but it would appear that she was a friend of Joseph’s who sadly drowned close by. Seeking out this enigmatic place is a must when visiting the beach at low tide.
The River Gannel that flows into the sea at Crantock makes a wonderful place for paddleboarding, swimming and bird watching. In the past Tregunnel, just beside the estuary, was an important shipbuilding harbour. Between 1858 and 1881 two brothers, Thomas and John Clemens, built 10 schooners here. Sadly by the early 20th century the river had begun to silt up, a process that has continued, putting an end to the industry.
The Gannel estuary can seem like a mysterious place, with an atmosphere all of its own, even on a sunny day. Some believe that this is due to its isolation and the quickly changing landscape as the tide rushes in over the flat sands.
Crantock is haunted
However, one local legend claims that the area is haunted by the ghost of a man that was drowned trying to cross the river. The story, which is said to date from the 17th century, claims that a local man, known for his bad temper and selfishness, was called upon by a sick neighbour at Penpol to fetch her the vicar because she believed she was going to die. The man was very reluctant to help because it was not in his nature but he finally agreed to her dying wish.
On the return journey the tide was coming in and the river was in flood. The vicar managed to cross safely but the man was swept away. And although his final good deed saved his soul from Hell he was so furious at his bad luck he is now said to haunt the river!
Natural wonders around Crantock
Crossing the Gannel is much easier these days as there is a footbridge to use if you are heading towards Newquay. Beyond Crantock the coastal path in either direction rewards the walker with superb views and more beaches to discover. Just beyond Pentire Point, the headland to the west of the village, is Polly Joke or Porth Joke beach where seals can often be seen resting on the sands or bobbing about in the water.
The headland itself is famous locally for its bright red poppy fields which blanket the landscape in early summer. A little further on leads you to Holywell Bay with its wonderful natural spring inside a cave reached at low tide – the well and the beach starred as a location in the recent Poldark TV series.
Crantock village stocks
Crantock’s Norman Church stands a little inland from the beach but it well worth a visit for its stained glass, ancient carved bench ends and the wonderful old village stocks that have a fun story connected to them.
The stocks were last used in 1817 when a local man called William Tinney was held in them for trying to steal from a poor widow living in the nearby village of Cubert. At that time the stocks were inside the church tower and perhaps getting a little old and not exactly fit for purpose anymore. William obviously decided he wasn’t happy with his punishment and managed to wiggle free from stocks but then couldn’t get out of the church.
Eventually he managed to make his way onto the roof and, as the vicar and villagers watched, he used a rope that he had cut from one of the church bells to lower himself down into the graveyard and ran away! He was never seen in Crantock again.
With so much history and natural charm Crantock makes a perfect day trip from Padstow and can be reached in about 40 minutes.